Welcome to Westminster Abbey
Westminster Abbey was founded in 960 as a Benedictine monastery. It wasn't until much later it was given cathedral status, meaning it was a Bishop's seat. In 1042, Edward the Confessor began rebuilding the abbey for a royal burial ground, which he had built in the Romanesque style. Formally known as the Collegiate Church of St. Peter at Westminster, this structure was finished a week before Edward's death in 1066. A few months later, it was the site of the coronation of William the Conqueror, and every subsequent coronation of an English/British monarch since. Henry II built a chapel, known as either the Lady Chapel or the Henry II Chapel. It's dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and the space is done in the Decorative style, which hides the bones of the structure. It's about the aesthetic here and a departure from the heaviness of the structure and its visible bones.
Fast forward a bit and the Gothic cathedrals in England hit a snag. Henry VIII. Serial husband who took umbrage with the Pope's refusal to grant him a divorce from his wife Catherine of Aragon, broke with the Papacy and declared himself the head of the Church of England.
A drone video of Westminster
By 1560, Westminster Abbey is no long an abbey or cathedral. Fun fact: it is said during this time the phrase "robbing Peter to pay Paul" gained in popularity when monies set aside for St. Peter's (Westminster) was sent to St. Paul's Cathedral treasury instead. Also in 1560, Elizabeth I made Westminster Abbey a 'royal peculiar,' meaning it is of the Church of England but answering directly to the Sovereign. This made Westminster Abbey first and foremost a State Church. Coronations, burials, some weddings, and other state functions are held at Westminster. Most recently, the wedding of William and Kate was held there, and in coming months a memorial for Stephen Hawkings will be held there as well.
As this is a church used by the state, the interior is one part Christ and the other a massive memorial to the greats of the British monarchy and history. The South Transept of Westminster is known as Poet's Corner. This area is dedicated to writers, from Chaucer and Shakespeare to Dickens, Austen, and Caroll, some are memorials and others are buried beneath the floor. You can visit the area here.
Fun fact: You have to have a purchased ticket to tour Westminster. Ely is free. You can't take photos inside Westminster. Ely you can take as many as you could ever want.
Ely Cathedral, an excellent glimpse at the scope and size of this structure.
A ways to the northeast of Westminster Abbey is the town of Ely, in Cambridgeshire. In 673 AD St. Etheldreda founded a monastery. Ely Cathedral, dedicated to Etheldreda, began in the Norman (Romanesque) style and was adjusted over the years of building to become a Gothic structure.
Here you can see elements left over from the Norman (Romanesque) structure: the rounded arches, the heavier, darker stone work, and the lack of ribbed arches above.
In 1321 an additional structure was built to the side, the Lady Chapel. This chapel was built in the later Decorative Gothic style and can be viewed here. As Henry VIII dismissed the authority of the Papacy, Ely and other cathedrals throughout England floundered. The religious/state upheaval of the next several years brought the destruction of many buildings. At Ely, much of what was considered specifically of the Catholic faith were destroyed. The sculptures of the Lady Chapel were either removed or had the faces smashed off.
Notice the lack of faces on the sculptures in the niches.
This is an example of the decorative Gothic style. This is the ceiling in the chapel dedicated to St. Etheldreda.
We have discussed the memorials that have since been added to these cathedrals. Many are from the modern wars. The stained glass here is a memorial to those lost in World War II.
The art and stain glass of Ely Cathedral can be seen here.
An aerial drone view of the cathedral can be seen here.
This concludes our foray into England and the English Gothic. This week we hop the Irish Sea and land in Dublin to study the art and architecture of Christ Church and St. Patrick's Cathedral.
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